Showing posts with label Possets. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Possets. Show all posts

Sunday, January 21, 2018

Flamenco and Perfume? Yes, please.

(Otherwise known as The "Meaning To" Beginning, With Gipsy Kings and The Arabian Dance)

For several years, I have had an idea of diving into music. I know what I tend to gravitate to, but I have been on a journey of asking myself, "Is this who I am, and how do I know that," in many areas of my life. Music somehow remained static. I liked what I liked, and didn't stray much from that. But, as I continued to question myself regarding what I was "sure" I liked and wanted to add to my life, music began to take on a focus.

Music, like perfume, is often considered a personal taste. Also, like perfume, there will be those who think your personal taste is terrible (and should not be aired to the public, lest ye offend). With both, some will be interested in more than what is traditionally offered. Like perfume, there are music brands and types sold for mass consumption. Then, there are the steadily growing niche perfumers and bands that have developed loyal followings because they offer something else/more, something that isn't being acknowledged by the mass consumption gods.

Music, like perfume, even though developed by others, is considered an intimate form of self expression.

I have taken several years to explore perfume (although I admit that even there, I have tended to find one thing, obsess over it for a little while, then stall out before moving on). In doing so, I have discovered more of myself--things I thought I didn't like but ended up loving, new words to describe my tastes and interests, ways I tend to self-care (and ways I can improve), the way I approach something I'm not sure about (and how I can work on expanding my experiences).

I have often not understood not wanting to learn, whether it's more about self, about others, about the world we live in. I see people going about their day-to-day, sometimes candidly expressing that they don't want to explore anything else. They want the routine, the predictable. While, I do understand how comforting sameness can be, I also crave discovery and truths that may lurk beyond what we think we know and experience. I've been told by several people (in varying tones and degrees, and sometimes meant as an insult, sometimes as a compliment) that "You are a very different type of person, Maya. Not everyone is as __________ (bold/willing to explore/critical of self/whatever the thing is at the time) as you are."

When I've heard that, I have allowed it to set me back. Should I be as curious about the world, about people, about what makes us all tick? Why is this insatiable desire to know inside of me?

One thing I seem to have to keep learning is that whether I am the same as everyone else or different, it's not going to change who likes me, loves me, hates me and even more importantly whether I like or hate myself. So why not test a horizon or two?

Which brings me back to exploration. I have, through the past two years (and especially so last year), been adding to my "Someday I want to explore that" list in music. I've asked people what they listen to, and have added those artists and songs.

While I've been doing this, I have also been adding to my perfume lists as well as looking at the boxes of perfumes I have set aside to fully test, explore, make decisions about.

For over a year, I've been meaning to get to both the music and the perfume with the idea of combining them. Test a perfume. Test a new artist. I have held back because sometimes I scare myself by how much I want to do something (and I also realize the big risk of exploring an artist, not liking them, and having someone tell me how stupid they think I am).

But the idea has persisted. Persists. Probably will continue to do so.

So, today, I basically closed my eyes, spun the list on Spotify, and picked a group at random that I added I don't even know how long ago, and pressed play. I also closed my eyes, reached into my box of perfume and grabbed.

I didn't realize that just doing those things would make my hands sweat a little bit.

I probably won't give as in depth a review on the music that I pick as I do this (although who knows how it will evolve), but I do look forward to seeing what I connect with and what I decide to add permanently.

On to the reviews!

Gipsy Kings

The group Spotify landed on today was the Gipsy Kings. Per Wikipedia, "The Gipsy Kings are a group of flamenco, salsa and pop musicians from Arles and Montpellier in the south of France, who perform in Andalusian Spanish." Their website was fun to wander through and read. They hail from an area very close to where most of the well known perfumes in the world have been developed and come from (as we know them today). Both this music and perfume have history behind them--weighty, bold, and beautiful.

I also have liked flamenco music through the years, but have never really taken the time to focus on it. The Gipsy Kings grabbed me immediately, and I found myself adding more of their songs to one of my permanent lists. I find it almost impossible to be cranky while listening to flamenco music, and the Gipsy Kings kept making me happy from track to track.

However, reading their story also reminded me of a different history when it comes to gypsy culture, and how gypsies have been treated through the years. I found myself wondering what joy, what cultural impact, what influence would have been lost if the people who had wanted to rid the earth of gypsies and their culture had succeeded.

Today, I am grateful for a chance to listen to masterful guitar work and powerful vocals. I will be keeping this group's music around and look forward to more days spent with the Gipsy Kings.

Today's perfume grab was The Arabian Dance, and I admit to chuckling over how life can sometimes pair things. I'm listening to music that makes me want to dance, and it is paired with a perfume with dance in its name. I probably would have had to hunt for hours to find that pairing, and yet closing my eyes and picking made it happen. It tickles me.

Today, for the fun of it, I'm going to go through the review first before I find the scent description and notes from the perfumers website.

The Arabian Dance

In the bottle, I get a bunch of things that smoosh up together. I start to pick them out and at first get the sense of a dark and woody chocolate or coffee. It's dark and just shy of bitter. But, immediately dancing around that and lifting the whole is a sweet fruity note that feels like it's tangling with raw silk. It's compelling in the play of light and dark.

On my skin, my left arm immediately gets a beautifully spiced note (like an amazing spice cake, loaded with cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove), threaded with a touch of coffee. I also get the sense of sugar. On my right arm, I get more of the sweet fruit that turns very perfumey. The raw silk edge lifts, then drops down to become part of the perfume base.

As it dries, the spice on my left arm is beautiful. The coffee note drops into a deeper and softer chocolate vibe without smelling like chocolate, and continues to play along a line that dashes between light and dark, without ever becoming heavy. It is (on my left arm) completely what I would like my cozy days to smell like in wintertime: charming, uplifting, slightly spiced, warm. On my right arm, that coffee note begins to rise a bit and brings up the raw silk aspect. It also comes across as very perfumed with a sweet edge. It also has a note in it that reminds me a little bit of Phyllotaxis also from Possets, which had a black musk and coffee note blended with chai and lavender notes. My right arm has a slightly plastic edge among the notes, but it is not dominant and only noticeable when I put my nose on my skin and sniff. I suspect there is clove in this one, as clove can sometimes go to a weird plastic on my skin (but only up close, not in the throw). The waft around me is glorious: warm spices, a distinct snugglycuddleness, and yet lifting into a really beautiful perfume with soft and sweet edges, without being too sugary sweet.

Fully dry, the perfume softens a lot, but stays warm and cozy spices, a faint hint of coffee base, and keeps that lovely perfume edge with a soft sweetness. This is perfect for me right now in our winter months. (I suspect it would be too much in our heat and humidity.) I will be putting this in my autumn-spring rotation pile.

The Arabian Dance is a permanent at Possets, so if you think you may like to try it, it would be available as a sample. The notes for it are: Clove, coffee, a drop of mild oude, and very light smoke. Very spice sensuous and lovely like a sunny afternoon in a coffee shop in Dubai in January. A glorious simple pleasure. 

The mention of smoke surprised me a little, but I suspect that is the raw silk edge I was getting. Overall, I'm a bit pleased that I picked out the clove (or spices) and coffee. For people who may be afraid of smoke fragrances, this seems like it would be a good one to try. I have other perfumes that literally have a smoke-from-a-bonfire smell. This is a much lighter, more "clean" smoke, and soft. It is a beautiful perfume and deserves to be out more. I'm thrilled to have rediscovered it.

Both the music and the perfume are perfect for today, and both are keepers (although I know some will not be). I look forward to seeing what else is out there just waiting for me to discover them.

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Grieving Today, and a Love Note to Perfume

Just a few minutes ago, I heard from someone who follows Possets that Fabienne Christenson passed away in hospice. Link to her obituary: Fabienne Christenson

This summer had been difficult for her, and she had let us know on the forum that she was "helping a loved one" in hospice. Looking back at some of her posts, things that were a little confusing now are much more clear. For example, she loved Halloween and always looked forward to making Halloween fragrances, but this year "unexpected things" had come up, and we would not be getting our yearly release. I remember thinking how very out of character that was for her. And, I admit that I was tempted to write her several times, but I know how busy helping someone in hospice can be, and I didn't want to intrude. (Now I'm wishing I had intruded, a little bit.)

She was the first perfumer that I discovered when I started going down the Indie perfume/niche path (not one that someone recommended to me).

I still remember going through the website and ordering samples, getting the samples, and immediately turning around and ordering a few bottles and more samples. Some of the perfumes worked. Some didn't. Such is the nature of skin, chemicals, bodies, and perfume.

One of the things that charmed me about Possets was that Fabienne would include a little personal note on each invoice, and her turnaround time was impressive. If she had issues with a mail carrier, she let us know. She hated delays. She liked to be connected. And it showed. When she had to raise perfume prices, she did so with apologies and warning. All part of her dedication to customer service.

She is one reason that I decided that perfume didn't have to be fussy or full of alcohol or headache inducing. I found more from her that worked for me, that I enjoyed, and when I found out that her company had been started as an essential oil company, that made sense to me. She seemed to care about what she created, and it showed to those who purchased from her.

When I heard the news today, I had an urge to find all of my Halloween bottles, and open them. This was one of her favorite times of year, and it showed in her Halloween releases. In some ways, I find it oddly fitting that somehow she waited until autumn. It was a season she loved, and it was a love she shared with many of us on the forum in her posts, and also in her perfumes. Where else would you find perfumes called Ghost Fart; Gingerbread Whorehouse; or Pumpkin Tied Up, Covered in Honey, and Licked all Over? Her sense of humor, her fun, her delightful approach to an art that some take much too seriously (although to be fair, some don't take seriously enough) charmed me and made me realize that perfume is just one more fantastic way to express myself.

Oh, Fabienne, you will be missed. Thank you for being part of the scent memory of my life, and for sharing your art with us while you were here. I am deeply grateful that I found Possets when I did, and that it was part of what helped start my ongoing love affair with something as small as scent molecules. Science and art can be utterly wonderful when they come together, and Possets is proof of that.

Today, as I watch more leaves being shaken down by unseen winds and I think of all that I love about autumn, I am going to find my Halloween bottles and decide what I'm going to smell like today. I can tell you this: I'm going to be delicious. And I owe that to Fabienne.




Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Possets: Allen Ginsberg--Howl

I took several steps away from writing recently, and I found (again) that not writing ends up making me feel like my soul has been sucked into a black hole. Being candid: sometimes I already feel like I've been sucked into a black hole, which leads to the not writing, but the not writing black hole is infinitely worse than the black hole I feel when I am writing. Each day away made me more miserable and cranky. I finally decided that if I couldn't write about perfume (something that is so deeply embedded in my core) then I have serious problems. After struggling to peep over the edge of the black hole for a few weeks, I finally popped my head out completely (I can't talk about the rest of me, but I suppose that's neither here nor there), and I decided to come back to the blog with a Possets perfume from the summer release.

So, onward to the review (and thank you for my moment of catharsis).

A little bit of back story: The Possets summer release focuses on poets and their poems (link to the main page for the summer release is here: Possets Summer of 2013 Release ). I write poetry (some can be found on my "serious" blog here: Maya's Poety Stuff ) so I was determined to be allll over this release. I've found some hits, some misses, but one that keeps calling me back again and again is the perfume inspired by Allen Ginsberg's Howl.

The Possets description: "Perhaps the iconic poem of the Beat Generation, Howl needed to be cast as a perfume. By "cast" I mean to make a mold of it, as in the lost wax process, so that you can feel the time it portrays with your mind through scent. This was a time of big perfumes, the discovery of patchouli, cigarette smoke, chypre with a wild touch of something from the east. There was sweat and sex, the world was discovered for the first time.

Possets' interpretation of Howl is unabashedly sexy, driven mad by welling passions. Black, red and amber musks wrestle furiously with sandalwood and opium tar resin. There is nothing light, sweet, or gentle about this scent. A burning incense backs it up, black patchouli stands in the forefront. Dark, musky, resinous.

Tremendously savage, dark and sweet like molasses rather than sugar.

...and yet, there is something innocent about it all."


In the bottle: I have been (since day one) unsure about this fragrance while it sits in the bottle. I get a little bit of dryer-sheet-aisle waft and that always makes me do a squinty face. However, wrapped around that is a really deep and dark hint of something that wants to come out to play, a rough edge (and oh do I love those rough edges), and a drop of sandalwood (very light drop), threaded through with a shot of something that makes me think of very dark brown sugar with some of the sweetness cut out.

On my skin: Oh my. Deep, perfume-y, and rich, this goes on with almost a chocolate vibe (cocoa chocolate, not milk nor mild) with a hint of smoke, a touch of Fabienne's chypre (I cannot get enough of her chypre blends), and a deep dark musk that seems threaded through with a faint touch of something that feels like caramel without all of the sweetness. I also get a faint touch of spiced incense.

As it begins to dry down: the smoke roughs this up a bit, which I love. It's not a heavy smoke because the other notes are stronger, but the undernote of smoke gives this a gritty edge that makes this intriguing and compelling, and adds a lot of depth. I have to admit that I (so far) haven't fallen in love with most red musks I've tried, so I was nervous about this perfume. I can get some of the red musk vibe, but it's whipped into shape by the black and amber musks so that makes me happy. The rest of this is a little bit sweet, but not sugared in its sweetness. This comes across as a very dark perfume without feeling too heavy or oppressive.

As it dries further: The black musk (sweet and velvety) comes out to play some. It gives this warmth and body, and plays beautifully with the opium tar resin. I think some of the smoke that I'm getting is from the opium tar resin, but the opium tar also adds a note of sweetness to this and a bit of the grit to round out the edges. The amber musk adds a touch of powder to this, helping to keep this from being too heavy and overwhelming. The faint incense note fades down even more to give support to the base.

Final dry down: this has staying power and decent throw. Despite the heavy-hitting notes, it ends up being deep and dark without being overwhelming or smothering. That dark cocoa note rides along for a while then merges into the smoke and the grit. I keep coming back to the word gritty for this one. It's not gritty as in dirty, but gritty as in having teeth and edge and fortitude. I think of gravel, but despite that rough edge, this has a lot of smoothness to it. It's lush, velvety even, and rich. I think the patchouli helps to add to the grit in this, but this is no head-shoppy patchouli. It's dark and growly and plays beautifully with the other notes.

At first sniff, I wasn't sure about this one. And, I have to admit, that there's something about this that for the first five minutes makes me wonder if I'm going to want to scrub it off. It feels...unresolved...(for lack of a better term) for those opening minutes. But when it begins to pull together it becomes a thing of beauty.

This is a deeply satisfying perfume for someone who likes contrasts and balance and dark but not too-heavy fragrances. It has some sweetness, but it's not so sweet that you feel like falling into a sugar coma. It has depth. It has teeth, but those teeth only nibble, and there is something about it that is definitely worth a nibble or two (or five, or more--whew!). It feels velvety and lush, but it has a prim backbone that keeps it from going overboard. It's perfumy and makes me think of some of the dark heavy-hitters from the 1980's, but this doesn't have that nose-clogging sneezability like those did. I feel powerful and strong while wearing it, but hours later when it's completely resolved and faintly riding the skin all I want to do is snuggle up somewhere with my favorite book and a nice fire because of how comforting and soft it feels. I love perfumes with nuances and edges, and this one definitely has that for me.

In short, the name says it all: Howl. When I put it on I want to prowl, I want to stalk, I want to wait for the darkest night with the faintest light, put this on, and yell at the moon, then find someone to drag back to my lair to...well, you can fill in the rest. I'm pretty sure I'll be voting for this one to become permanent. :D

Thursday, May 23, 2013

A Testing Day--Possets Void, Curve, 3:5:8, Spirogyra

There are times, when I get several different bottles from a release, that I try little dabs in a sit-down test session. Instead of focusing on one specific perfume, I'm taking you to the "back room" so you can get an idea of what it's like to be in my house when I do a hodge-podge day.

Today, I'm finishing up my last few bottles from the Possets Sacred Geometry release for Spring 2013. Since I do a quick test on my hodge-podge days, you won't get many final dry down notes, unless I like something so much that I go back to it. If you like my initial notes, feel free to request a full review so I can go through the whole profile for you another day. I also reference some other perfumes that I may not have covered on this blog. If you'd like the notes/comments for the fragrances I reference, let me know and I can post them for you.

I'm covering Void, Curve, 3:5:8, and Spirogyra.

Void description from Possets: "Void--The heart of cold proud springtime. Deceptive simplicity. Sandalwood acts as a seductive and earthy base for a bed of grapefruit and refined grapefruit expressed oil to lie down on. Very cerebral seduction going on here, where foody actually provides the cold logic, and unusual task and aspect. White and pink grapefruit, a concentrate of grapefruit which is meant to make it last longer than the lilt of fleeting topnote. Sharp and insistent but loaded with charm. I constructed Void to mimic the vacuum of deep space where Sacred Geometry begins. Without the void, there can be no geometery. Foody, resinous, dark, almost unbearably sophisticated."

Void reminds me of Point (from this release) in the bottle, but a tad more grapefruity. On the skin, helloooo grapefruit. Ooohhh do I like you. But then, I like grapefruit. I eat it like oranges, and people watch me in horrified disbelief, and I tell them they are missing out on a lot by being so picky. This has such a pretty under-note rising up right now. Very perfumy. At the moment, this is all grapefruit made into perfume. I'm getting...hmmm...what is it...sandalwood? *Looks up notes* Yep! Sandalwood. Oh my. The way those two blend is seeeexxxxy. There's something in the grapefruit (that I found with Point) that is skin but better. This one almost has a sweaty skin quality that I find particularly alluring. Bright, happy, perfumy. I'm glad I have this. Definitely bottle worthy, but it's not making me scramble to beg the perfumer to change my vote. Having smelled Point and Line (the review for Line is here: Line Review ), I really like how these all seem to be natural progressions of each other--just as the geometry they are based on is a natural progression. This seems to be on par with Line in terms of vibe, but on a softer level, and I get that skin-but-better-than-skin note from Point.

Curve description from Possets: "You have the void, you have the point, you have the line, now bend it into a graceful bow and you have the curve. Beautifully feminine, classic, the perfect celebration of being a woman. Abstract purple lilac essence mingles with the theme-sign for the elegant classic shapes. Grapefruit (pink only) with an extra does of the zest. A drop of Hidecote lavender which has been aged and this becomes a fundamental piece of adornment for your wardrobe. Versatile, yet unique; this gem can stun and delight you alone or as a layering device."

Curve in the bottle is pure springtime and lilacs with a heady undernote that is reminding me of...hmmm not sure yet. On the skin, this blooms beautifully in the grapefruit and lilac. So far (crosses fingers), the way it's sitting on the skin is making me think this just might be the lilac scent I have been looking for. The lilac seems like the perfect companion to the grapefruit. I'm shocked at how much they compliment each other, blend, merge, play. Who knew? I'm wondering if it's the lavender, but something in here (very small, down at the bottom) reminds me a LOT of one of the other perfumes from this release--it's almost the nectar of Dodecahedron, but not quite. Or maybe it is. Hmmmm. Ahhhh now about five minutes in, the lavender is coming forward a hair. Delicate, soft, almost Arc of Venus (scaled down a lot) femme. Curve is definitely pretty springtime femme. If this holds, without going soapy or funky (as many lilac scents do on me), this would probably be in my top five from this collection (or maybe top six). So far, the grapefruit seems to be holding the lilac in line. I don't get much lavender from this, but what is there is baby soft and lurking way down on the bottom with occasional spikes for attention.

3:5:8 description from Possets: "The darkest of all black musks which I have ever used (very special and only obtainable in small quantities (and I have been aging it carefully in my aging cabinet). A gleaming DRY smokey vanilla which almost is something other than vanilla, it is so complex. Finally it is all finished off with a very light dusting of precious jasmine, but the kind I use is not stinky at all*. Finally a light version of night blooming cereus and a wild incense which is like the lovechild of nag champa, high and dark.

A deep sexual Tantric fragrance.

* I grow jasmines and know which ones are the varieties I like and which ones are the overly aggressive, stinky, or unpleasant types."


3:5:8 in the bottle is Helloooooo jasmine and black musk! I recognize you black musk, oh yes I do. Hah! On my skin, this becomes an almost grape-y jasmine (full and rich), with the black musk adding its comments. This one reminds me of the Valentines releases in the King Henry line (specifically Catherine of Aragon): a bit weightier, a bit more depth, having a more exotic tone. So far, I'm not sure if we're going to come to an understanding or hate each other. *Sulk Gaaaaah! As it continues to dry, I'm catching a whiff of dryer sheets. Is it that incense? Nooooooo! No, no, no, no, no! Aghhhh! Incense, why do you hate me so?! *Weeps bitterly. (Note for followers: some incense goes straight to Mexican Tienda dryer sheet aisle on me--which means I get a hint of the dryer sheets, a waft of the corn tortillas a few aisles over, and sometimes a smidge of chorizo from the meat section at the end of the aisle. I love it in the Tienda--not so much on my skin. Not all incenses do this to me, which makes trying perfumes with incense a continual adventure.) The jasmine and black musk are lovely, but that incense is destroying the whole thing for me. Booooo! No "deeply sexual Tantric fragrance" for me!

Spirogyra's description from Possets: "Lime, lemon rind, grey musk, and African Musk, a small touch of fir and a few drops of geranium. This is a bright blend which creates an aura of freshness. Great for anyone who has to work with the public or who likes to work out and wants to project freshness without projecting a harsh kind of clean. This is a versatile and winsome perfume. I love the way the musk and citrus played in the final version. Named after a beautiful algae which arranges itself into the neatest spirals and is green."

Spirogyra in the bottle is fresh and spa-like. A touch of green, a smidge of creamy coconut (although that could be sage, because the sage in Line felt like creamy coconut and it was gorgeous), a little floral, a little touch of wood. On my skin, this is very much like taking a day at the spa. Very soft and fresh herbal green, citrus (I get more lime although I can see the lemon rind also playing around), and a teeny tiny bit of geranium. (I love Mrs. Murphy's geranium hand soap, and this geranium slightly reminds me of that one. Very pretty and soft, and not overtly floral.) The musks are a bit heady, but this is (so far) a very public-safe scent. It rides nicely on the skin, projects a clean and soothing throw (without being a soapy clean--just a fresh clean), and minds its manners beautifully. It does seem to have some of the clean and classy aspect that I really liked in Line--a bit of wood (in Line, it's cedar, but this is supposed to be fir), and it also has the same creaminess rounding out all of the stronger edges and turning them silky. This could very easily be masculine or feminine. As this continues to sit, I get an almost aquatic tone from this--a little salty sea air mixed with the green. This is fresh, soft, happy, and glowing scrubbed-skin from a high-end spa. Pretty without being femme. Soft without being powdered. Smooth and refreshing. It's not what I would normally wear, but I could see it being just the thing on blah days where a mini-vacation is needed.

Final notes:

Void is a lovely comparison to Point and Line. I can see how those two came to be from this.

I'm still really liking Curve. The lavender has come out to play, and is soft and almost powdered--no spiky lavender here any more. It merges beautifully with the lilac and grapefruit. Believe it or not, I could see this being absolutely gorgeous on a man, although the notes would indicate more femme. The lilac is still holding as lilac (wooohooo!). Yep, this would be in my top five from this release (although, it's usually about an hour out when things can go funky with lilac, and I'm not there yet, so who knows).

Spirogyra is clean, clean, clean although the musks seem to be adding to my sinus headache that I woke up with (every time I sniff that particular spot, my head goes WHOMP), so this will probably find a better home. I'll try it again on a non-sinus headache day for a final verdict.

And 3:5:8? Incense, why do you hate me so? Whyyyyyy? Gah! I can see this being loved by a lot of people. I just won't be one of them. *Pouty stompy feet


Monday, May 13, 2013

Possets: Line

Again, I'm going with a perfume from the Possets Sacred Geometry spring 2013 release. At this point, I have no idea how I'm going to narrow my vote down to three, because this release has been beyond amazing.

Now to the review!

Possets' description for Line is: "The shortest distance in any case. The way a particle likes to travel in space. More down-to-earth elements are introduced as the fragrances move more into the realm of Nature and away from the pop of pure intellect. Again grapefruit signals that this is a construct of the imagination, counterpoints of sage and cedar lift up the blend and cause it to be somewhat woody and slightly smokey. A delight, herbal and fruity."

In the bottle, I get citrus, a hint of pale smoke, something that comes across as green, and something that comes across as soft (almost bendable) wood.

Once this hits my skin, oh my this is so good. I get the faint hint of cedar, but this cedar is so very soft--perhaps like what baby cedar trees smell like. I tried this earlier today without looking at the notes, and I had forgotten sage was in here. I kept smelling a note that was creamy like coconut and slightly green like a coconut rind, but it wasn't quite coconut. I was going crazy trying to figure it out, but when I saw sage was in this, it made sense that that creamy almost green note was the sage. The sage never comes across as S.A.G.E. to me. Instead, this is like sage dropped down, flattened with an iron until smooth, and brushed until velvety soft. This is such a lovely sage note--so creamy and smooth.

As this dries, this almost comes across as tropical, but not quite. It's warm and caressing, but it also has an edge to it (without being edgy). The citrus holds and merges with the gorgeous soft cedar--which turns this into a high-class skin scent in some ways at this point. When I close my eyes and sniff, it makes me think of very classy department stores--the kind where everyone talks in whispers, the clothes are perfectly tailored, and the smell of money and power emanates from the walls. And yet, this is also much warmer than that, warmer and softer, gentle, and human in all the good ways of being human.

As it continues to dry, I continue to get that creamy coconut note that clearly must be the sage being a sneaky super soft sage mingling with the grapefruit. At times, the sage does amp a bit and try to get sharp, but it is calmed by the cedar. The cedar would never do anything as vulgar as yelling, spanking, or swearing to lower the sage's attitude. No, the cedar simply floats down like an angel and awes everyone into submission and good behavior.

I feel like I need a whole new lexicon of words to describe this collection. Right now, I'm trying to classify what I'm smelling and it's a jumble in my head. This is classy, but soft classy--no hard edges on this one. It's creamy, with the cedar (oh so soft and delicate) being a supporting base, so there's wood in here but it's soft and creamy and snuggly wood. The grapefruit is also so very soft in this.

I didn't think this was astringent, but at first application my mother called it astringent so I suppose it could have some sharp edges on it to someone else, but it doesn't to me. (Although, she did say as soon as it started to dry that it immediately changed from astringent to soft.)

In the final dry down, this merely softens the already beautiful notes from above. It's cuddly and beautiful and classy and gaaaah! I wish I had the words for it! It's creamy and lush, while, at the same time, also being somewhat austere, threaded with powder soft cedar and grapefruit. The faint smoky vibe I get from it reminds me of the soft smoky note I love in other perfumes from this collection. This is simply beautiful--without a girly floral in sight. Quite the achievement.

Sunday, May 12, 2013

Possets: Dodecahedron

I'm continuing with the Possets Sacred Geometry spring 2013 release with Dodecahedron.

Possets' description: “The perfume which bears its name is as unusual and attractive as the dodecahedron itself. A very dry and unusual green vanilla, a touch of nectar, and a bit of smoke from a fragrant wood fire blend perfectly with the lovely citrus paradisii oil for a happily sharper side to all the emollient sweetness. A very likable perfume and serious in an unexpected way. I would say that this is a perfect perfume to dab on when you are in a devil-may-care mood this spring.”

In the bottle: brown sugar, a touch of grapefruit pith (not quite as sharp as grapefruit zest), and something that comes across as a soft and sweet vanilla.

On my skin: The brown sugar rises then drops down quite a bit, and the grapefruit comes forward. The perfume immediately shifts from food notes to perfume notes while retaining the food notes (although the brown sugar does lean more toward food and less toward perfume)—it's a pretty neat trick and my brain is boggled at how quickly it did so.

As it dries: The brown sugar note is a soft and sweet base. Something that almost comes across as green wood threads through (perhaps that's the vanilla?). The grapefruit is definitely grapefruit, but it's also grapefruit as perfume in the prettiest way. I'm getting something that reminds me a bit of the light sweetness of nectarines or peaches without getting any of those fruit notes, and it's very smooth. I'm also getting a soft pretty smoke vibe that I got from Fearful Symmetry (a Possets perfume from this same release)—very soft, pale pale smoke, that comes across as more of the memory of smoke and not actual smoke. Side note: I am so in love with that note, I want more, more, more!

As it continues to dry: Wow, this is becoming prettier by the minute. There's something waaaay down at the bottom starting to rise up that reminds me of Eternity by Calvin Klein. It's not overt, and it's giving this a slightly green melon vibe, without smelling like green melon. It's fresh, sweet (but not sugary), and perfumy.

This is a light perfume—nothing heavy or dark in it—but that's not to say this has no presence. When I wave my hands in front of my face, I get a drift of brown sugar, a citrus flowered note, that faint touch of fresh green wood, and the hint of pale smoke. This feels like a perfect perfume to wear in the heat and humidity of summer: it's fresh feeling, delicate, a little sweet, a little tart, a bit soft green, and it does this all without coming across as a creamsicle or a nose-clogging fruity floral.

This is my third perfume from this release that I've been struggling to wrap my brain around. I consider that a good thing: the notes are beautifully blended, it has a delicate touch, it's engaging my brain, and it's just so pretty.

When I close my eyes and sniff, this makes me think of the rose garden in Duluth, MN (off of Lake Superior), and times I spent wandering around up there, which means this is a happy and golden kind of perfume without coming across as too warm or too heavy (and I definitely don't get a bright yellow vibe from this one—this is more pastel with maybe a streak of grass green). This is a perfume that reminds me that I'm surrounded by beauty, by history, and something a bit dangerous, but all that matters is this moment of sunshine.

This doesn't have a lot of throw, but I did dab sparingly because I didn't want to be overwhelmed by that brown sugar note. Having said that, I don't think this one will be high throw, but it will make people who smell it want to get closer to you so they can get more of it.

Friday, May 10, 2013

Possets: Fearful Symmetry

I'm continuing my reviews of the Possets Sacred Geometry spring release with Possets' Fearful Symmetry.

Possets' description: "The title is from William Blake's poems, Tiger Tiger Burning Bright. Inspired by the beauty of Sacred Geometry and the dynamic symmetry which we all respond to, this blend is the fanciful ode to secret knowledge, without the guile of logic, just the guide from the heart.

Deep crystal and grey musks, combined with an ambergris-like accord which I have developed to have less marine and more astringent edge to it. White oude and comfry, sandalwood, light smoke and black amber. A very mysterious and profoundly beautiful perfume, for when you wish to be seriously desired. Aromatic, strong."


I initially grabbed this one today because what I sniffed in the bottle indicated that it would be more of a "fun" scent than a serious fragrance, and I really needed a touch of fun today.

In the bottle: bananas (a mix of them--almost too sweet like the way they smell when they are over-ripe, and also the almost bitter green sweetness of them when they are not quite yellow), and something really deeply beautifully perfumy down on the bottom.

On my skin: The banana pops, but I also immediately get something that comes across as a very pale wood--could be the sandalwood with a very fine touch, could be the white oude. When I sniff close and deep, I get what comes across as a very smooth sandalwood. The banana note begins to ride up more on the green scale, while still retaining that sweetness of the ripe while dropping some of the heaviness of the ripe note. The notes already begin to shift and resolve into bringing up more of that beautiful perfumy base. I can't put my finger on that base, but it is lovely.

As it dries: The sandalwood is baby soft here--like sandalwood powder without being powdery. The banana note continues to weave in and out of the other notes, rising in sweetness then falling again. I normally don't go for crystal or grey musks, but I do get the lift of the crystal musk and I also get an almost zen feel of the grey musk, and I really like how they are playing around here.

As it continues to dry: someone on the forum said they got a dry sheet vibe from this, and I can see where they got that. I think that's part of the light smoke coming in because this feels like a very soft clean smoke, but it could also be the comfrey bringing in the clean edge. It rode that way for a while on me--like a fresh out of the dryer clean sheet, oh so snuggly and warm--then it began to shift again and all of a sudden I was getting the most amazing perfume rising on my skin. I am normally not someone that likes perfumes that smell like, well, perfume. I want it to remind me of something, evoke an image, make me close my eyes. I don't go for something that says perfume. Although this does that, it also does so much more. The banana remains, but what it adds to the whole is...I don't quite know how to put it into words. It's like a banana, but a banana wearing a little black dress, the perfectly matched pearls, and the smoothest kid-skin heels. It's banana, but that's like saying The Queen is rich. There is a small (teeny) part of this that reminds me of Issota and Sigismundo (a banana sandalwood perfume from Possets), but this is on a much softer but richer edge. There is a part of this that reminds me of upscale spas and luxury and quiet serenity. There is a part of this that brings to mind the softest white pepper in the world without smelling like any kind of pepper. When I sniff deeply, I get a very faint hint of sea air mixing with the above notes, rounding out the depth of this. This is smooth, perfumy, fruity (but not fruity floral), clean, soft, surprisingly good, and very very pretty.

The final dry down softened the above notes, but kept them riding on my skin for a long time. I first put this on around three this afternoon, and I was still smelling it nicely on my skin when I came home at 10:00 and washed my arms with the idea of putting a fresh spot on so I could do this review. I have a feeling this won't make the final cut, but it should. Oh my it really should. It's so different than anything I have in my collection--or even have smelled, for that matter--so far.





Sunday, May 5, 2013

Possets: DNA

DNA is from the Sacred Geometry: Secret Knowledge 2013 spring release at Possets.

Possets' description: "Even the DNA strand follows the Sacred Geometric curve as it rotates around its 4 elements in endless combinations!

I wanted to make this an unabashed foody with lashings of: toffee, butterscotch, cream, butter, and a tidal wave of vanilla. if you like the foodies, this one is a rare beauty. I also wanted to play with a very very very small tot of coffee plopped in for a bit of depth to it all and that did make it ultra special. Wear it when you are in a hedonistic mood."


In the bottle: Mmmmm caramel, whiskey, toffee. Mouthwatering.

On my skin: Buttery creamy toffee, whiskey, butterscotch (in fact, my husband just walked by and said, "You smell like butterscotch!"), a touch of cream, and waaaay down at the bottom is something a bit darker and heavier that may be the coffee. (When I first tried this one--fresh out of the mailbox last week--I didn't get the coffee. I was surprised to see the coffee on the list today, but I remember that's one reason I grabbed this one. I'm always looking for a good coffee scent.)

As it dries: This is FOODIE. Unabashed, full on, hedonistic lick 'em all up now. I'm still getting a whiskey kick, and this is going more and more butterscotch by the minute. The cream is still coming through, but it's not the heavy cream from Cream (the perfume from Possets) as it was the first time I tried it. The cream now is softer, more rounded. Something slightly sharp to this almost comes across as plasticy--as in a hair away from plastic but not quite there. The vanilla is also very obvious in this, adding to the sweetness. I just had my mom sit next to me and I asked her what it smells like. Answer: "Oooh that smells good. Smells like sugar and spice and everything nice."

As it dries further: the whiskey note continues to ride along--I don't know why I'm getting whiskey here, but I think that's part of the sharp edge I mentioned above, and it's definitely hitting my nose as whiskey. I like it. It's keeping this from being over the top sweet. This is also coming up with a hint of a brown sugar vibe right now. It's veering away from butterscotch to more of a warm brown sugar, but still threading the butterscotch note through. I am getting a different throw than what is directly on my skin. My skin amps the bitterness of that whiskey-ish note, but when I wave my arms around, I get nothing but sweet yummy creamy toffee. My left arm seems to be the one pushing the plastic-y vibe, my right arm is all deep cream mixed with brown sugar with a touch of something herbal. When I stick my nose on my right arm, I love what I'm getting: warm snuggly sugared skin. When I stick my nose on my left arm, I get that whiskey/plastic with toffee pushing through that.

I still don't get much coffee from this, but then I am comparing it to the other coffee scents I've tried recently (Phyllotaxis and Quantum Interconnect from Possets) which were heavy on the coffee.

Dry down: This is now smooth brown sugar mixed with butterscotch and a hint of that note I'm interpreting as whiskey. A touch buttery. A little creamy. This is also much smoother than it was the first time I tried it, so sitting a bit did help this one develop a bit more. I have a feeling this one will be really scrumptious in a few months. If caramel or toffee notes go funky on you, I don't know how well this will play on your skin. But, if you love foodie scents, it's worth giving this one a try, just because it's foodie! The bit that got on my shirt is super lickable smelling, so even if it doesn't play well on your skin, it could be fabulous in a scent locket. Just don't blame me if you end up eating the scent locket half way through your day.

Saturday, May 4, 2013

Launch-Frederic Malle's L'eau D'Hiver

After hoarding my perfume reviews for a couple of years and posting them on perfume forums, I'm ready to launch a blog that isn't quite as serious as my other writing (that can be found at MayaHarvest.com).

This blog will be Possets heavy since that is where I get the bulk of my perfume oil, but it will also include Solstice Scents, Alkemia, Arcana, Blooddrop, Sara Wen, Sweet Anthem, and whatever else I stumble across. I also have niche "regular" perfumes that I hoard and review occasionally (such as from L'Artisan, Frederic Malle, Serge Lutens) and I will include those as well.

To celebrate this launch, I'm adding a review I wrote a few years ago of one of my favorite scents: L'eau D'Hiver by Frederic Malle.

Description from the Frederic Malle website: "A fragrance entirely one's own - clean, crisp, but also warm, an endless source of reassurance. The transparence of water binds with the softness of white heliotrope, iris and honey for the gentlest composition imaginable. Jean-Claude Ellena set out to create the first "Eau Chaude," pushing his understated, minimalist style beyond traditional boundaries. Here he fuses the two extremes of the olfactory spectrum into a mellow, fragile fragrance of a new kind."

From the Now Smell This website, the notes that make up this scent are: "bergamot, angelica, iris, hawthorn, jasmine, honey, carnation, heliotrope, caramel and musk."

This goes on with a very spicy powdery iris note. On my left arm, I get a green spicy note threading through. On my right, there's more of a peppered powder. Within a few minutes, my left arm is bringing up bergamot and almost immediately threading it down to a low hum as the green swims through. I think the green is the hawthorn, and I may be getting a touch of jasmine. On my right, it's firmly in the heliotrope (I love heliotrope and can seem to pick it out of anything), iris, and musk.

As it dries down: the left arm is starting to bring up the heliotrope. This is a very sheer fragrance. I dabbed and dabbed from my sample before I felt like I truly had an amount I could sniff. I could see this (so far) being a great scent for any season. It feels very feminine, and that heliotrope is definitely in my "love" category. My left arm makes this a very powdery heliotrope, my right makes it a much more in-depth (rounded, slightly flowered, rich in almond) heliotrope. So far, I'm not getting much honey or caramel, but I think the carnation is kicking up the powder of the iris.

I dabbed again (I'm afraid of overdoing it, but I doubt that's possible with this scent) and immediately got a strong bergamot note on both hands but it falls almost immediately to the powder, although it stays a little more bergamoty on my left hand. Comparing it to the older dabs, the older dabs are bringing in more of the sweetness of the honey and caramel, but definitely not a pronounced honey as in Tea for Two from L'Artisan or the caramel in Madera from Omnia. This is very soft and pretty. It's not a scent that demands attention, but there's something so compellingly comforting about this that I can't stop huffing my wrists. Per research, angelica is part of the parsley family and I think that was the first green note I was picking up, and as it goes along there is an interesting “fresh” note that I think is the angelica keeping the notes really light and not falling down into heavy iris like it could. Interestingly enough, the small dot I put on my shirt is much more hawthorny and I'm assuming I'm getting the angelica a lot there as well, and the bergamot hasn't dried down.

Final verdict: this is sweet without being sugared, high on the powdered softness of iris, slightly vanillic/almond due to the heliotrope. It comes across as cool, but also snuggly and comforting, and it's that contrast that keeps me intrigued.

Years later, this still remains one of my favorite perfumes. I can only afford samples here and there, but whenever I wear it I feel both confident and soft, pretty, calm and collected, and ready for snuggles. It's such a great perfume.